Tropical Popsicles

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There is so much gorgeous fruit around at the moment, our fruit bowl is spilling over with pineapple, citrus, pomegranate and pears.  I was a on a shoot recently where I managed to nab a ripe papaya, some limes and a few passionfruit at the end of the day.  The passionfruit in particular smells like a tropical holiday, all white beaches and lapping waves. 

I made this for us to have as an after dinner treat with a rather garish popsicle mould set I picked up a lifetime ago but have never got around to using.  These would be perfect for kids as they are fun and sweet without any added sugar or sweeteners.  The coconut milk gives them that luscious, creamy mouth feel you want from ice cream which combined with the tropical flavours reminds me of those Solero ice cream lollies I used to love growing up.  But much better for you!

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Papaya, Coconut and Lime Tropsicles (tropical popsicles)
(makes 4 ice lollies)

You will need:
1/2 tin coconut milk (200ml)
2 tbsp desiccated coconut
juice and zest of 1 lime
2 passion fruits, flesh scooped out
1 Papaya, seeds removed.

Method:

1. In a small bowl, mix together the coconut milk, desiccated coconut, lime juice and zest.  Pop in the fridge.

2.  Divide the passion fruit flesh and seeds between the four moulds and freeze for about 30 min, until just about solid.

3.  Add the coconut mixture to the moulds and freeze for about 20 minutes, until beginning to freeze.  Meanwhile, juice the papaya.  If you haven’t got a juicer, simply blitz and strain.

4.  Divide the papaya juice amongst the moulds and pop the sticks in, pushing into the coconut mixture.  Freeze until completely solid, 4 hours or overnight. 

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It Must Have Bean Love.

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Be my slightly less sweet Valentine this year.  This decadent chocolate cake is exactly what you would want to make for a loved one or to finish a romantic meal.  Except it isn’t quite as naughty as it seems.  This cake is free from refined sugar, sweetened instead with dates and a little maple syrup.  There’s no dairy just coconut oil instead of butter and coconut cream for the frosting.  And there’s no flour or grains at all, so it’s completely gluten free.  There is, however, a surprise ingredient- black beans.  I recognise that this sounds a little incongruous, but trust me, it makes for a really moreish, fudgy texture.  Anyway, everyone is doing it-  it’s the new beetroot as far as chocolate cake baking goes and just as delicious.  My apologies for the Roxette pun in the title, I couldn’t resist. 

Chocolate Black Bean Cake with Hazelnut Mocha Mousse and Coconut Frosting
Makes 1 cake

You will need:

For the cake:
1 can black beans (400g), drained
2 tbsp very strong coffee
5 fat medjool dates, pitted
3 tbsp maple syrup.
1 tsp vanilla extract
30g raw cocoa powder
75g coconut oil, plus a little extra
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
pinch salt
5 eggs, separated

For the mousse:
150g hazelnuts, covered in cold water and soaked overnight
2 tbsp very strong coffee
1 tbsp raw cocoa
1 tbsp maple syrup

For the frosting:
150 ml coconut cream
1-2 tbsp maple syrup, to taste.

Red fruits like strawberries, raspberries, red currants, pomegranate seeds and figs, to serve
2 tbsp dessicated coconut, to serve.

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Method:

1.  Preheat the oven to 180C and grease two 20cm sandwich tins with a little coconut oil.  Line with parchment.  In a magimix, combine the beans, dates, maple syrup, coffee, vanilla and cocoa.  Blitz until completely smooth- it should take a few minutes before the dates have completely dispersed into the mixture. 

2. Add the coconut oil and continue blitzing untill the coconut oil has completely dispersed- there should be no white flecks.  Add the bicarb, salt and egg yolks and blitz until just combined and transfer to a large bowl. 

3.  In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks.  Beat a large spoonful of the whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten slightly.  In three separate additions, fold in the egg whites until just combined.  Divide equally between the two sandwich tins and bake for 20-22 minutes, until firm to the touch with a little spring and a cake tester comes out clean.  Leave to cool in the tins.

4.  To make the mousse, drain the hazelnuts and place in the magimix with the cocoa powder, coffee and maple syrup.  Blitz until broken up and grainy, stopping to clean down the sides from time to time.  With the motor running, slowly add 150ml of cold water and continue to blitz until you have a light, fluffy mixture.  Set aside. 

5.  For the coconut frosting, whisk the coconut cream in a small bowl sweetened with a little maple syrup.  Refrigerate until needed.  Spread the mousse on one of the chocolate cakes, then top with the second.  Frost with the coconut cream and decorate with fruit.  Finally, dust with a little dessicated coconut. 

 

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Easter Lamb

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I spent Easter in north Devon with my soon-to-be in laws, walking along beaches, exploring smugglers’ villages, cooking and chilling out.  The weather held for two out of three days, which is more than you can expect from an English bank holiday, so no complaints there.  I always find that Easter is a wonderful time for gathering together and breaking bread, without the stresses of decorating, present buying and the dreaded turkey cooking that comes with Christmas.  This is a much more relaxed affair, free from quite so many expectations.   There’s really only one thing I insist on at Easter: roast lamb, at its best right now.
 
This year, I studded mine with garlic and slow cooked it for 5 hours on a bed of spuds and onion.  However, if you are feeling more adventurous, you could try this almond milk braised recipe.  Cooking with almond milk is something I’ve been wanting to try for ages and I was not disappointed.  It adds a richness that works particularly well with the fennel and beans here, and makes for a really succulent, tender lamb.  You could also veer towards north African with the flavours, adding chilli, coriander and cumin before roasting then scattering with pomegranate seeds.  I think that would work particularly well, but felt that something a bit more classic would be more appropriate for Easter.
 
The photographs in this post are, yet again, taken by Faith Mason during an Easter-themed testing session.  I particularly love the black and white photo of duck eggs, with their pearlescent shells.  The blue eggs are in fact not painted (although that would be pretty fitting for Easter), but come from Cotswold Old Legbar hens and naturally have a slightly turquoise hue.  You can find them from Clarence Court, along with many other exciting egg varieties.  
 
 
 
 
 

Almond milk Braised Shoulder of Lamb with Cannellini Beans, Fennel and Baby Carrots

You will need:
1/2 shoulder of lamb, approx 1kg/2 lb 3 oz
3 fat garlic cloves, cut into slivers
2 green chillis, finely chopped
1 tbsp chopped parsley stalks
1/2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly bashed
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
300ml/10 fl oz almond milk (unsweetened)
1 tin cannellini beans, drained
baby carrots, to serve
flaked almonds and chopped parsley leaves, to serve

 

 

Method:

1.  Preheat the oven to 180C/160 fan/gas 4.  Using a small knife, make little incisions all over the meat and insert the slivers of garlic.  Mix together the parsley stalks, cumin seeds, lemon juice and zest, smoked paprika, olive oil and 1 tsp of salt (preferably sea salt) in a small bowl to form a thick paste.  Rub this all over the lamb.

2. Place the onion and fennel in a roasting tray, season and pour over the almond milk.  Sit the lamb snugly in the tray.  Cover with tin foil and roast for 1 hour, basting a few times, then remove from the oven and tip in the beans.  Continue to roast for a further 30 minutes, uncovered, until tender.  Leave to rest for 10-15 minutes then scatter with chopped parsley and flaked almonds.  Serve with steamed baby carrots, still slightly crunch and, if you like, some of the beans, fennel and milk whizzed into a thick sauce. 

Blood Oranges and Bergamot

 

The last few days have been gloriously sunny and bright- a real shock to the system after the wet, dank weather we’ve had since the start of the year.  The only thing that really keeps me going towards from February to March is the promise of lighter days, warmer weather and finally being able to hang up my winter coat.  It looks like I’ll be doing that a couple of weeks earlier this year- this weekend we even sat outside at the pub, squinting into the sun.

There is one bright and brilliant addition to the last push of winter that I always look forward to, though: blood oranges.  It seems strange that this vibrant citrus fruit is in season during the winter, though I’m not complaining, as they always seem to arrive just when I need an injection of freshness and long for lighter foods.  This year, I was lucky enough to find bergamots for sale alongside blood oranges at the brilliant Deli Downstairs, my local treasure trove. So I had a bit of a mad few weeks where every meal was finished with a juicy, plump Sicilian blood orange, bright juices streaming down my hands and feat like some sort of gory feast.  But I also experimented with them in salads, puddings and bakes.  The results are in. 

double pavlova citrus

Blood Orange Curd
Adapted from Steve Parle’s recipe, found here.
(makes 1 large jar)

You will need:
400ml blood orange juice (from about 8 blood oranges)
zest of 3 blood oranges
150g caster sugar
10 eggs (5 whole and 5 yolks)
200g butter, cubed

Method:
1.  Sit a medium sized bowl over a pan of just simmering water.  Add the blood orange juice, zest sugar and whole eggs along with 5 yolks.  Allow to thicken for about 15 minutes, until it coats the back of a spoon. Stir in the butter, one cube at a time, waiting until each has melted before adding the next one. Tip into a large sterilised jar, allow to cool completely then refrigerate.  Use within two weeks. 


Blood Orange and Mascarpone Victoria Sponge
(Serves many)

You will need:
175g butter
175g caster sugar
3 large eggs, beaten
175g self-raising flour, sifted
1 blood orange, zest and juice
blood orange curd
1 tub mascarpone

Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 180C and grease 2 x 23cm springform cake tins, lining each with a circle of greaseproof paper and greasing again. Cream the butter and sugar together with electric beaters until light and fluffy.  Gradually add the eggs, continuing to beat between each addition.  Fold in the flour and orange zest, adding 1-2 tbsp of juice to lighten the mixture slightly.

2. Divide the mixture between the tins and bake for 25 minutes or until the cakes are risen, golden and a cake tester comes out clean. Leave the cakes in their tins for 10 minutes, before removing from their tins and cooling completely on a wire rack.  Generously spread one cake with the mascarpone and curd before sandwiching with the second cake. 

 

 

Pan Fried Mackerel with Blood Orange and Fennel Salad
 (Serves 2 as a light lunch or starter)

You will need: 
 220g pack of green beans, topped and tailed
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
pinch of sugar1 fennel bulb, sliced thinly and any fronds reserved
2 blood oranges, peeled with any pith removed, sliced into rounds
large handful black olives, I used Kalamata
2 mackerel fillets, pin-boned (get the fish monger to do this for you)
small knob of butter
25g toasted flaked almonds

Method:
1.  Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, add the beans and cook until just tender.  Drain and place in a large bowl of ice cold water to cool and crisp up.  Whisk together 2 tbsp of olive oil with the balsamic vinegar, sugar and some seasoning. Place the fennel, blood orange slices, drained green beans and olives in a large bowl.  Add the dressing and toss together then divide between two plates.

2. Add the remaining oil to a large, cold pan. Sit the mackerel, skin-side down, in the pan and turn the heat on to medium.  Frying your fish this way means the fillets don’t curl up and ensures perfectly crispy skin.  Keep frying, basting with the oil and adding a little knob of butter if necessary.  Once the flesh of the fish has gone from translucent to opaque, it has cooked through.  Flip over briefly and fry for a further 30 seconds. Top the salads with the fish fillets and sprinkle with flaked almonds and any reserved fennel fronds.

Bergamot and Blood Orange Pavlovas
(Serves 6)

You will need:
5 egg whites (from the curd, see recipe above)
2 bergamots, juice and zest
275g caster sugar plus a little extra
300ml double cream
1 blood orange, segmented
blood orange curd
handful pistachios, roughly chopped

Method:
1.  To make the meringues, preheat the oven to 120C.  Place the egg whites in a large, preferably metal or glass, bowl with a squeeze of bergamot juice.  Whisk to stiff peaks.  Mix the sugar with the zest of 1 bergamot then add in heaped tablespoonfuls to the whites, whisking between each addition.  Line a large baking sheet with greaseproof paper, then drop on 6 even dollops of the meringue mixture, leaving as much space between each as your baking sheet will allow.  Use a spoon to swirl each meringue nicely before placing the lower part of the oven for 1 hr 45 min- 2 hrs, until the meringues are crisp and dry and will easily lift off the baking sheet. Allow to cool completely.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the double cream until stiff peaks form.  Add the zest of the remaining bergamot and a squeeze of the juice. Sweeten to taste with a little caster sugar, but keep in mind that the meringues are very sweet.  Once ready to serve, place each meringue on a serving place the pile high with the cream, segmented blood orange slices (in the photos for these posts I used bergamot segments, but feel these were too sour), a dollop of blood orange curd and a sprinkle of the pistachios. Serve immediately.

Double jelly pavlova

 

Blood Orange Jelly with Custard
(makes 5-6 individual or 1 large jelly)

You will need:
 For the jelly:
3 leaves of gelatine
300ml fresh blood orange juice (about 8 blood oranges)
25g sugar

For the custard:
290ml double cream
zest 1 blood orange
2 large egg yolks
2 tbsp caster sugar

Method:
1.  Begin by making the jelly.  Place the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water so they are completely submerged.  Leave for 5 minutes.  Meanwhile, gently heat the blood orange juice and sugar until just dissolved.  Do not boil.  Set the sweetened juice to one side, then squeeze out any excess liquid from the now softened gelatine leaves and add to the pan.  Stir for a few minutes, until all the gelatine has melted.  Pour into a medium sized bowl or, for individual servings, ramekins and wine glasses work well.  Allow to cool before chilling until completely set- at least 4 hours but preferably overnight.

2.  Make the custard.  Place the cream and orange zest into a pan and bring slowly to the boil.  Set aside to cool briefly. Beat the yolks and sugar in a medium-sized bowl briefly until combined and creamy.  Pour over the cooled cream and then clean out your pan.  Return the mixture to the pan and stir over a low heat, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. This should take about 10 minutes- do not simmer or boil at any point.  Strain if necessary and use to top the set jellies.  Return to the fridge for a further hour before serving.

Tea Time- banana bread without the flour

I’m continuing on with my adventures in flourless baking.   And seeing as I frequently seem to have a couple of bananas in my fruit bowl quietly going brown and mushy, perfecting a recipe for a flourless banana bread seemed not only obvious, but imperative.  Not in the grand scheme of things, but, you know, on a micro-level.

I feel like I’ve really nailed it with this recipe.  It has that light bready texture without the density normally associate with flourless or gluten-free baking, despite the addition of pulpy banana.

To make the cake completely gluten-free, you could of course use gluten-free oats.  This recipe is also relatively low in sugar, as I find that the over-ripe bananas lend more than enough sweetness for my palate.   You may, however, prefer to make your loaf a bit sweeter by adding an extra 100g or so of caster or brown sugar (which would give the bread a more caramel flavour). 

Flourless Banana Bread

You will need:

4 over-ripe bananas – mashed
3 eggs
100ml oil
120g casterl sugar
350g gluten free self-raising flour
100g oats
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp gluten-free baking powder
2 tsp zantham gum 
Water

Method: 
 

1. Place all ingredients except water in a large mixing bowl.

2. Mix everything together until well incorporated.  If batter seems too stiff, add a bit of water by the tablespoonfull. 

3. Pour into greased loaf tin (a 2lb or  22cm long by 11cm wide by 6.5 high loaf tin and bake at 180 degrees until brown and ‘springy’ when the top is pushed gently – about 30 minutes.  Keep an eye on it and cover with tinfoil if getting too brown.
4. Allow to cool slightly before removing from the tin.  You could now leave the loaf to cool down completely, however, it is pretty fantastic whilst still a bit warm, spread with butter.