It’s been a long time… and Bornholm

Posted in: Scandi, Travels | On: 16/01/2015 | By

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It has been an absolute age since my post, practically a lifetime in blogging terms.  The reasons for this are simple and hopefully understandable: firstly, I got hitched!  Secondly, I’ve been embarking on a freelance career foodstyling and writing so between that and planning a wedding, something had to fall by the wayside and that, unfortunately, was this blog. 

However, I am back now and very much raring to go.  The blog has had a makeover which is now almost complete- just a few niggly behind the scenes bits to sort out and a long backlog of posts featuring wintery fare to warm your cockles. 

I couldn’t get stuck back in without sharing some photos and recipes from our ‘scandimoon.’  We spent the week after the wedding in Denmark- a few days relaxing on the island of Bornholm before heading to bustling Copenhagen.  Bornholm was the real surprise- perhaps a slightly unusual choice (I’m fairly sure we were the only honeymooners on the island), but absolutely worth the trek.  The island is in fact closer to Sweden than it is to Denmark (as I’m fond of pointing out), about an hour and a half by ferry from Ystad in Skåne. 

There’s plenty to see and do on the island and although we had hired a car, the most popular way to get around is definitely on two wheels.  Bikes are easy and cheap to hire and mean that you can whizz along the coast with ease- darting between pretty seaside villages, forests, cliff tops and beaches.  And what beaches- white sand, clear blue sea and a not-too-shabby 24 degrees in the water!  We were there in August and had many of the beaches to our selves, including the one at the bottom of the road from our little cabin/cottage (or ‘cabbage’ as we found ourselves calling it).

Bornholm is well known for its incredible produce.  It almost feels like the island could be self-sufficient, with its agricultural riches and hard working locals, who all seemed invariably passionate about their goods.  We came home with pasta made from durum wheat grown on the island, buttery, golden rapeseed oil, a basket of garlic and several bottles of the local brew.  We passed on the local wine, however.  Though perhaps that was a mistake as a certain famous Copenhagen restaurant proved to us later in the week with its offering of Danish vino (more on that in the next post). 

Every road was lined with little stalls filled with bags of produce, when we were there these overflowed with several varieties of spuds, with a little honesty box for your contributions.  Each little coastal town or village had something foodie to offer- flødeboller from chocolate shops and smoked fish from the smoke houses in Snogebraek, fish restaurants in Nexø, beer from the brewery in Svaneke and the Gårdbutik och Polsemageri in Hallegård.   This deli and sausage specialist was a bit tricky to find, but well worth getting lost down narrow country lanes for.  The unassuming farm also has garden with chairs and tables set up under fig trees and rosehip bushes where they serve a few open sarnies and nibbles.  However, the highlight is definitely their tapas board, laden with home-made charcuterie, pickles, veg, cheese and even soup. 

Bornholm was basically one giant food coma as it was (the cycling helped), but we still couldn’t miss out on dinner at Kadeau.  Inventive, local and yes, foraged, this is the place to experice New Nordic Cuisine on Bornholm.  We had the set menu bursting with freshly caught seafood, herbs, fruit and veg picked from their own garden.  The food was excellent, but it really had to be to compete with the ridiculous view.

Below are some snaps of the best of Bornholm- a round up of Copenhagen and a little recipe will follow shortly.

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                                                                                The back of Kadeau’s menu- a map of Bornholm with all their suppliers

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                                                                                    Garlic and cold pressed organic rapeseed oil from the island

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                                                                                                  Smokehouse chimneys in Songebaek

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                                          Raising the Danish flag in Snogebaek

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                    Sol over Gudhjem, a local speciality meaning ‘Sun over Gudhjem’- rye bread, smoked herring, chives, radish and a raw egg yolk.

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                                                                                        A flødeboller from Bech chocolate shop in Snogebaek

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                                                                                                    Bech Chocolate shop in Snogebaek

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                                                                                          Spuds for sale by the side of the road

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                                                   Denmark- where they take ice cream seriously.

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                                                                                                                The brewery in Svaneke

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                                                                                                 Lots of local veg to go on the BBQ

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                                                                                            The Bornholm way to get around- even on the beach!

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                                                                                                             Breakfast on the beach

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                                                                                           Rain splashed figs almost ripe for the picking

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                                                                  Taking shelter from a rare rain shower under a tree at Hallegård Gårdbutik

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                                                                                                                         Hallegård tapas

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                                                          Open sarnie with the most fantastic vanilla poached cherry tomato and cloud berries

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                                                                                      Just a few of the sausages for sale at the Gårdbutik

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                                                                                                               The beach below Kadeau

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                                                                                    Squash, fresh cheese, oysters, parsley, horseradish

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                                                       The best restaurant view in Scandinavia?

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